By Eckart Schillings – Rings for Brides

Being a creative Goldsmith and Diamond setter, I have made hundreds of unique engagement rings over the years.

I work in all the precious metals, Gold, Platinum, Palladium and Silver.

Does Diamond size matter when choosing my Engagement Ring?

The jury is still out but it is something that every bride-to-be will have a definite opinion about.

In essence when choosing an engagement ring it all comes down to the size and quality of the stone, or stones.

But before we get to the interesting questions, we should cover a few of the basics.

First: The budget. Traditionally the cost of an engagement ring was around two month’s wage. But in reality, spend what you can afford and what you are comfortable spending.

The amount you can expect to pay can vary enormously. A perfectly acceptable diamond ring (.7 carat, I colour, good round cut, VS1 clarity, on a yellow gold setting) from a reputable online vendor will set you back around $3,400. However if you wander down to Tiffany & Co, you can pick up a stunning 2.5 carat round solitaire Ring from $57,000!

As a rule of thumb don’t be afraid to haggle and keep in mind that people are increasingly using the internet, not only to research but also to buy both stones and settings. Naturally if you go down this path make sure the website is reputable and that the right documentation is provided. If you are buying from overseas and the purchase is more than $1000 you will also have to pay 10% Gst on top of the original price.

The second hurdle is to decide whether to buy off the shelf or custom - made ... In both these cases you will still need to have the ring sized appropriately. The best bet for sizing is to “borrow” one of your other half’s existing rings. But make sure that it is something that she wears often, is comfortable with and fits the right finger!

Custom made to measure is an interesting process. You either can commission a specific design or even have a go at designing something yourself. In my own case I took what I knew of my wife’s tastes, took a few hints from things that I had seen in some very expensive windows and drafted up a design. This pathway is not for the faint of heart and finding a good jeweller is very important. I was lucky, as a friend of my sister came highly recommended. She did a wonderful job and even helped me shop for the right stone wholesale. And when it comes to choosing a stone, trust is very important.

The four C’s

The four C’s are cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. With diamonds it all comes down to some very simple but fiendishly challenging options. Not putting any stress on it but this is a decision that your dear wife may have to live with for the rest of her days. She will be more aware of this than you can possibly ever know.

There is also the 5 th “C” which refers to the quality of the actual Diamond Cut. A perfectly cut Diamond will outshine any of the more ‘regular’ cuts…only about 10% of Diamonds are cut to precise mathematic angles to qualify as a “Hearts and Arrows “ diamond. They are also referred to as ‘triple EX’ which means it states on the Certificate that the Cut , Polish and Symmetry of the Diamond is rated: Excellent, Excellent, Excellent.

The cut of a diamond determines its dimensions, its brilliance and its finish. Most experts regard the cut as the most important factor, as the right cut will maximise the light reflected off the stone, while a poor cut will reduce the stones brilliance, regardless of clarity or colour.

Popular cuts include: ROUND, PRINCESS, HEART, BAGUETTE, EMERALD, ASSHER, RADIANT, PEAR, OVAL, ...

The round brilliant accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold and is considered to be the benchmark. The round cut, by its very nature is also the best cut to give you maximum light reflection…other shapes, especially the ‘Baguette’ cut are less brilliant…the baguette for example looks more like a piece of Ice…However the popularity of “fancy cuts” is much defined by prevailing fashion and in practicality, local availability and expertise.

The colour of diamonds can vary enormously. For engagement rings the general acceptable grades range from D (100% colourless) through to I (nearly colourless). Generally the clearer the diamond the higher the cost, and while the difference in appearance between colourless and near colourless may not be that obvious there is a big difference in price. Interestingly it is easier to detect colour in fancy cut diamonds which is why H or higher is often recommend as opposed to I or higher in the more standard brilliant.

Clarity is fairly straightforward to evaluate. In essence diamonds naturally contain external marks or scratches (blemishes), or internal irregularities (inclusions). They are categorised as follows:

Flawless (FL) - no visible inclusions or blemishes

Internally Flawless (IF) - no visible inclusions and only small blemishes on the diamond surface

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2) - minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see

Very Slightly Included (VS1 & VS2) - minor inclusions that are difficult to somewhat easy for a trained grader to see.

Slightly Included (SI1 & SI2) - noticeable inclusions that are easy to very easy for a trained grader to see with a 10 x times jewelers loupe.

Included (I1, I2 & I3) - obvious inclusions that are clearly visible to a trained grader. Included diamonds have inclusions that are usually visible without magnification or have inclusions that threaten the durability of the stone.

Carat weight is simply a measure of weight. 1 carat (1ct) is equal to .2 grams or .007 ounces. Smaller diamonds can also be measured in carat weight points, with one carat equal to 100 points.

Size versus quality

Everyone has their own opinion. If quality is the key, then you will need to find an acceptable balance between cut, clarity and colour. Although the selection of a setting designed to showcase the maximum amount of fire and brilliance may also prove to be a counterpoint to a small carat weight.

If size is more the goal, you could select a larger carat stone but with lower quality colour, clarity and cut. Another option includes adding side accent stones, to enlarge the appearance of the ring and total carat weight. Mounting a stone on a high pronged setting can also make a stone appear larger, as can the selection of a fancy cut such as a pear or rectangular shape.

Lastly, I want to mention the 'other' Diamonds: Natural Fancy Colour Diamonds.

They are a world of their own and different rules apply, having said that, a natural coloured Diamond, in yellow, green, blue or the rare pinks will be even more special...

Hopefully this information will help you make an informed decision on the most important Ring you will ever purchase.

If you have more questions talk to a Jeweller you can trust!

Information provided by Eckart Schillings www.ringsforbrides.com